Ron Rosa's Polpo Restaurant & Saloon in Greenwich

Written by Fran Sikorski
Thursday, 02 October 2008 14:50

If you’re old enough to remember the suave Sherman Billingsley, owner of the celebrity mecca restaurant, The Stork Club in New York City, you will understand why Ron Rosa of Wilton, owner of Ron Rosa’s Polpo Restaurant & Saloon, with 40 years’ experience in food service, has been described as “the Sherman Billingsley of Greenwich” for his unsurpassed cuisine.

Owner and staff are celebrating the restaurant’s eighth anniversary on Oct. 5. Originally from Redding, Ron Rosa is building a home there, and will soon return with his wife Dominique and two children, Andrew, 13; and Isabelle, 11.

As a restaurateur, Ron Rosa has owned 12 restaurants, including Ecco and Campagnola in Manhattan, since sold, and currently Bull Dog Bar & Grill in Norwalk and Cos Cob. A name change, Louie’s Italian Restaurant & Bar is planned for both the Norwalk and Cos Cob eateries.

Located down a country road off the Boston Post Road in Greenwich, Ron Rosa’s Polpo, in a natural stone house built many years ago by Italian immigrants, has an elegant and inviting atmosphere. The wine list is extensive, and there is Ron Rosa’s private label wine, with grapes from the Strawberry Ridge vineyard in California blended in Washington, CT.

There is not a detail missed. The highest praise goes to the table captains and their staffs for being mind readers.

Mr. Rosa’s associate of 35 years, Executive Chef Franco Maltagliati is originally from Milan, Italy, where he attended culinary school. He skillfully balances texture and taste in creating his dishes, assisted by Cosmo Nero, a chef at the Rainbow Room in New York City for 12 years, and Carmine Paglia.

Ron Rosa joined my companion and me for lunch, and we enjoyed spectacularly presented tastings of oysters, crab cocktail, seafood salad, little neck clams, and salumeria, a platter of burrata, provolone, parmigiana eggplant, zucchini, roasted peppers and hot peppers.

Salads included arugula con mele verde with fennel; insalata di Cesare; insalta tagliata; and insalata composta.

Also tasted and enjoyed were sausage and porcini mushrooms with a spicy marinara sauce; homemade pasta with summer truffle, sage and butter and shiitake mushroom ravioli with a truffle cream sauce.

Signature entrée favorites are “Angry Lobster;” bone-in oven roasted chicken with sausage, onions, cherry peppers and potatoes; and breaded veal chop with arugula, tomatoes and onions. All dishes were full flavored and visually pleasing.

Napoleon pastry with cream and seasonal berries and Italian ricotta cheesecake, two popular desserts, were delicious. Other choices are hot apple pie, hot pecan tart, chocolate truffle torte, tiramisu, mixed berries infused with orange liqueur served with vanilla ice cream, crème brûlée, and chocolate mousse, and all stand up to Executive Chef Maltagliati’s and his assistants’ memorable cuisine.

Ron Rosa's Polpo Restaurant & Saloon

 554 Old Post Road

Greenwich, Conn.

203-629-1999; polporestaurant.com 

Open every day from 11:45 to closing, serving lunch and dinner.

Reservations “a must;” handicapped accessible; major credit cards; child-friendly; full bar; regional Italian cuisine; vegetarian selections; take-out; free delivery, $50 minimum, within 10 miles; off-premises catering; casual elegant dress; piano entertainment nightly from 7:30 to midnight; wine dinners; private functions; 10% discount for patrons 70 and over; seasonal outdoor dining; valet parking.

Soups: $8

Appetizers: $8 to $25

Pizza: $9 to $11

Pasta: $15 to $17

Main courses: $17 to $28

Sides: $6 to $7

Wine, glass: $10 to $16

Wine, bottle: $48 to $1,250

Desserts: $12

After dinner drinks: $10 to $32

Side dishes

Oktoberfest is being celebrated through November at the new MacKenzie’s Bar & Grill, 970 High Ridge Road in Stamford. Reservations, 203-322-9888...The original name of L’Europe Restaurant in South Salem, N.Y., changed to Tosca in 2007, has been re-instated with Chef Mark Schneider creating a new lighter menu. New hours are dinner 5 to 9:30 Wednesday through Sunday; Saturday and Sunday brunch noon to 2:30; Sunday evening 3 to 8. Reservations, 914-533-2570.