John-Michael’s at Purdy’s Homestead

Written by Fran Sikorski
Thursday, 06 November 2008 10:39

After seven generations of Purdys since 1775, followed by several restaurants, the homestead in North Salem, N.Y., has a new tenant, chef John-Michael Hamlet, former executive chef at Peter Pratt’s in Yorktown Heights and Stone Manor Inn in Maryland. He features a modern European menu based on French classics.

This restaurant offers an incredible dining experience created by a chef who began his culinary eduation at 15. In high school in 1994, Chef Hamlet won Best Culinary Student of the Year and placed first in a Careers through Culinary Arts competition that won him a trip to the Le Cordon Bleu School in London.

After high school, Chef John-Michael enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park and was selected by Chef Patrick O’Connell at The Inn at Little Washington to complete his externship there.

He assisted in the opening of restaurants and revamping menus for several establishments in Manhattan and was executive chef at Peter Pratt’s when he found the space at Purdy’s Homestead was available and opened his first restaurant in November, 2007.

Since that time, John-Michael’s has been cited in Zagat as a “key newcomer restaurant,” and in 2008, won a Best of Westchester Award from Westchester Magazine for smoked oyster ragout, now a permanent fixture on the menu.

Another signature dish is John Michael’s “foiejitas,” with Hudson Valley foie gras, marinated red peppers, and candied shallots in nutmeg crepes.

My companion and I enjoyed the subdued atmosphere as each course was served by an efficient staff, starting with Meadows Farm sweet corn soup with a side of Maine lobster salad and a shared Boston bibb lettuce salad with red beets, pickled mushrooms, smoked bacon, jumbo crab and honey beet dressing. Our entrees were peanut-crusted wild king salmon with ginger-scented pearl pasta, oyster mushrooms, scallion pancake with lime crème fraîche and seared day boat scallops, with glazed carrot puree, crawfish and leek ragout, baby brussels sprouts, and brioche.

Dessert was rich dark chocolate mousse profiteroles with a dark chocolate sauce, roasted figs, and vanilla bean ice cream.

Also on the outstanding dinner menu are crispy frogs’ legs served with gnocchi; duck confit, poached garlic, spinach, local honey, and garlic milk froth; oven-poached Chatham cod, with fingerling potatoes, double mushroom terrine, spinach salad and toasted cumin sabayon; and caramelized beef tenderloin with fondant potato, foie gras royale, wax beans, oven-dried local tomatoes with a cabernet emulsion.

Other signature desserts are Salinger Farms peach pot pie with vanilla bean ice cream, Granny Smith apple crisp and roasted banana and hazelnut brioche torte.

Is it any wonder that so young a chef is already being described as “Merlin the magician who works magic with food.”

Serving dinner 5:30 to 9 Wednesday and Thursday; 5:30 to 10 Friday and Saturday; 4 to 8 Sunday; closed Monday and Tuesday.

Reservations highly recommended; handicap-accessible entrance; major credit cards; child friendly; full bar; modern European cuisine based on French classics; vegetarian selections; off-premises catering; business casual attire; wine tastings and dinners; prix fixe, $15 to $25; and a la carte afternoon tea from 1 to 4 Wednesday, Thursday and Friday; private functions from 10 to 50; seasonal outdoor dining; live jazz in spring and summer; parking adjacent to the restaurant.

Soup: $9 to $12

Salads: $10 to $16

Appetizers: $12 to $19

Entrees: $21 to $35

Wine, glass: $8 to $15

Wine, bottle: $25 to $180

Rare vintages: $200 to $1,000

Desserts: $9 to $11

Side dishes

Dinner, with white tablecloths and candles, is now being served Thursday and Friday evenings from 6 to 10 at Silvermine Market, 1032 Silvermine Road, New Canaan. Entrees range from $17 to $26 plus specials. Breakfast and lunch are served from 7 to 5 Monday to Friday; Saturday and Sunday, from 8 to 3. Reservations, 203-966-4050...DiNardo’s Ristorante recently introduced is a new lunch menu including more panini (12 to 3 Tuesday to Saturday); dinner is served 5:30 to 10. Sunday hours are 12 to 9:30. DiNardo’s is at 76 Westchester Avenue in Pound Ridge.

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