May 23, 2013
Written by Fran Sikorski
Thursday, 15 January 2009 11:57
If you remember restaurants in the “good old days,” you will be happy at Louie’s Italian Restaurant & Bar in Cos Cob, the nearest thing to a neighborhood Italian restaurant, created by Ron Rosa of Wilton, owner of Polpo Restaurant in Greenwich. Mr. Rosa is partnered at Louie’s with Tony Lagournais, who handles the financial arrangements of both restaurants.
Mr. Rosa explained during a recent lunch that he grew up in Brooklyn, and remembers the Arthur Avenue and Mulberry Street restaurants and has modeled Louie’s after them, with lower prices that are earning praise from diners. He also pays tribute to his favorite Uncle Louie by naming this restaurant after him.
Starting with a wine list that is put together nicely, and compliments the cuisine, the meal is a pleasure from beginning to end.
I was joined at lunch by the two owners for a menu tasting, and recommend every dish that was served, including a salumeria platter that offered prosciutto, mortadella, porchetta, speck, and salami; sweet roasted peppers marinated in olive oil and Italian herbs; eggplant rollatini with ricotta and tomatoes and a spicy marinara sauce; and baked clams. This was followed by a refreshing Italian iceberg wedge salad with bacon and gorgonzola with Italian dressing.
Pastas included orecchiette Bari, with broccoli di rabe, sausage, garlic and olive oil; rigatoni Nonna with meatballs and sausage; and an exceptionally delicious lasagna rustica with sausage and Bolognese sauce.
Executive chef is Luis Mendoza who has worked with Mr. Rosa for 35 years, including at Campagnole in New York; he rotates between Polpo Restaurant with Cosmo Nero and Segundo Santos.
Main courses included filet of sole Francese sautéed in white wine with artichokes; chicken parmigiana; and Capri veal, breaded and topped with tomatoes with Marsala sauce, onions and mushrooms. All dishes are popular on the compact menu, and I do recommend the three listed. A seasonal menu will offer more satisfying main courses.
Desserts at Louie’s are traditional Italian homemade ricotta cheese cake, tiramisu, spumoni, tortoni, and tartuffo, and old fashioned apple and blueberry pie both served with vanilla ice cream, and chocolate mousse. I can never pass up ricotta cheese cake. Delicious!
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