Gaia in Greenwich

Written by Fran Sikorski
Thursday, 26 June 2008 13:23

Originally designed in 1857 as a bank by Raphael Guastavin, son of the architect who designed the Grand Central Terminal Oyster Bar in New York and the main hall at Ellis Island, Gaia Restaurant is a landmark building in downtown Greenwich. Dining there features plush surroundings, outstanding cuisine, innovative wine programs and professional service.

Owned by the London-based Marlon Abela Restaurant Corporation, Gaia features the talents of executive chef Frederick Kieffer who was trained in the art of French gastronomy. His talents became known at Man Ray in New York before he came to Connecticut, first as head chef at L’Escale Restaurant in Greenwich, and then to Gaia in 2004. He has implemented a style of dining that combines French techniques and classic dishes with organic ingredients and a homegrown concept that has become Gala’s signature.

In addition to Chef Kieffer’s menu, Gaia offers an hour-long “semi-blind” wine challenge, $55 per person, and a complimentary three-minute wine class developed by sommelier Jeff Henning, who came to Gaia from Valbella Restaurant, also in Greenwich.

I enjoyed an outstanding dinner paired with wines with a group of food writers, and the hour-long wine challenge created interesting conversations.

The wine dinner included flame broiled shrimp tapenade; ricotta ravioli with heirloom tomatoes; and the most tender braised short ribs in red wine sauce, with spring vegetables and squash puree.

Dessert was the famous vanilla cheese cake with caramel and sea salt baked in a mason jar, another cooking innovation at Gaia.

Fun items on the bar menu are lobster or cheeseburger sliders; shrimp, calamari and chorizo skewers; and oysters and clams on the half shell.

Other menu specialities are Mediterranean branzini with eggplant and pepperonata; black cod fish with roasted tomatoes and vanilla-citrus dressing; pappardelle and duck ragu with asparagus, fava beans and truffle oil; certified Angus steaks: hanger, filet mignon, and 36 oz. bone-in, dry-aged rib steak for two. Pastas are macaroni and black truffles; seafood risotto with lobster, scallops and calamari; and housemade ricotta ravioli.

Heavenly desserts that conclude a most satisfying meal at Gaia are coconut tapioca cream and chocolate sorbet with a lime crisp; lemon panna cotta with blackberry and bay leaf coulis; golden delicious apple upside down tart with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce; peanut, caramel and chocolate ganache cake with Ovaltine ice cream; and fresh raspberries and lychee sorbet with champagne syrup.

Every course at Gaia is a pleasure to explore.

 

Gaia

253 Greenwich Avenue
Greenwich, 203-661-3443

Serving lunch 11:30 to 3, Monday to Friday; dinner 5:30 to 10, Sunday to Thursday, till 11, Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11; prix fixe and a la carte Saturday and Sunday brunch, 11 to 3:30.

Reservations recommended; handicapped accessible on the first level only; major credit cards; full bar, happy hour; bar menu; extensive wine list; contemporary menu with French accents; vegetarian selections; dietary restrictions honored; casual elegant dress, jackets not required; wine challenges with the sommelier; banquets and private functions; street parking.

Soup: $11

Bar menu: $14 to $26

Starters: $11 to $21

Sandwiches: $13 to $26

Salads: $11 to $24

Brunch: prix fixe, $20

Brunch: a la carte, $11 to $45

Housemade pastas: $13 to $24

Entrees: $28 to $88 (for 2)

Side dishes: $5 to $8

Desserts: $6 to $11

Wine, glass: $10 to $16

Bottle: starting $24

 

Side Dishes

Clambakes on Fridays, $27.95 per person, and prime rib Saturdays, $24.95 per person plus tax and tip, are featured through Labor Day weekend at Fairfield’s Restaurant in the Ethan Allen Hotel, 21 Lake Avenue Extension, Danbury. Reservations, 203-744-1776, ext. 185; or 800-742-1776, Ext. 185...Outdoor clambakes and pig roasts are also available at Caputo’s East Ridge Café, 8 Grove Street in Ridgefield. Reservations, 203-894-1940.

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