In Ridgefield: The Bissell House Restaurant & Bar

Written by Fran Sikorski
Thursday, 11 March 2010 11:37

Downtown Ridgefield’s Main Street is postcard-picture-perfect again.

With the completion of a period replacement for the landmark 1890s Bissell building, destroyed by fire four years ago, Roy Reeves of South Salem, N.Y., last year opened a new restaurant, The Bissell House Restaurant and Bar, taking the space previously occupied by Gail’s Station House.

Tragically, Mr. Reeves’ Katonah restaurant, the Deer Park Tavern, which he had owned for 15 years, was destroyed by fire in January. He is rebuilding.

Mr. Reeves said he is offering the same menu served at the Deer Park Tavern at Bissell House, with everything cooked to order. Executive chef at The Bissell House is CIA graduate Jordan Lucchini who also creates the house-made desserts.

As soon as you walk into the Bissell House, you will admire the centerpiece of the restaurant, a striking mahogany, granite-topped bar surrounded by a casually elegant Victorian décor in keeping with the landmark building. You will find a warm and welcoming space to sip a drink, talk and savor the food in an unrushed dining experience.

Items on the Bissell House menu are made with seasonal ingredients that during the summer will be purchased from local farms. There is always something surprising on the menu.

Appetizers ($9 to $14): Already established as favorites are ahi tuna carpaccio; long-stem artichokes with mozzarella, Tuscan olives, sun-dried tomato pesto and basil; and P.E.I. mussels with andouille sausage, braised leeks, hot peppers and lobster brodo; and braised short rib ravioli with Parmesan Reggiano and mushroom essence.

Salads ($6 to $12) are three-beet with mixed baby greens, goat cheese croquette and a lemon-thyme emulsion. You can easily become addicted to goat cheese croquettes. Also appealing is baby spinach and poached pear salad with candied walnuts, and red wine-gorgonzola vinaigrette.

Suggested sandwiches ($10 to $15) are the “knife & fork” beer-braised brisket with whipped potatoes; sweet and smokey pulled pork with pineapple slaw and yucca fries; and a classic lobster roll with sweet potato fries.

Entrees ($17 to $29) at The Bissell House include two top comfort dishes, country meat loaf with broccolini, caramelized onions and mashed potatoes and all-day braised short ribs with celery root, pancetta, spinach and parsnips.

More suggestions: pistachio-crusted brook trout with Forbidden black rice, bacon wrapped French beans, and leek fondue; and grilled rack of pork with braised red cabbage, fennel, rosemary and fig reduction.

Desserts are $6.95 and if there’s room, an apple cobbler with vanilla ice cream is a favorite.

Favorites for the a la carte Sunday brunch ($7 to $14) are traditional eggs Benedict; choice of blueberry, banana walnut or chocolate chip stack of pancakes; cornflakes crusted French toast with applewood-smoked bacon and maple syrup; Black Angus steak BLT on toasted brioche; and farmer’s omelet, egg whites, market vegetables, low-fat munster and turkey bacon.

Bright and cozy, The Bissell House Restaurant & Bar is the missing puzzle piece Ridgefield’s Main Street needed.

The Bissell House Restaurant & Bar

378 Main Street

Ridgefield, 203-431-4440

Breakfast, starting March 15: from 7  to 11:30 daily; continuous serving lunch and dinner from 11:30  to 10 Monday to Thursday; 7 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Sunday a la carte brunch from 11 to 3, dinner from 3:30 to 9; bar open to 1 a.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday; specials include a prix fixe Monday dinner  all night for $27.95; Tuesday, BYOW (bring-your-own-wine, no corkage fee, Tuesday; half price off on the entire wine list; and Thank You Thursday, free dessert with dinner.

Reservations accepted for 5 or more; handicap accessible; major credit cards accepted; children’s menu; full bar, global wines, mixed drinks, 8 beers on draft; contemporary American menu; take out; off premise catering; casual dress; private functions. Seasonal outdoor dining/ street and municipal parking.