In Rowayton: Sails American Grill

Written by Fran Sikorski
Thursday, 10 February 2011 11:41

Reservations accepted; handicapped accessible; major credit cards; children’s menu; full bar, bottle and draft beers; wines $8 to $14 by the glass, starting at $28 by the bottle; modern American menu; take-out; upscale casual dress; private functions; music on weekends. seasonal outdoor patio; street parking.

Some favorite, and not-so-favorite restaurants have disappeared during the past year, to be quickly replaced by new restaurants with menus and prices designed, hopefully, for success.

Enter Sails American Grill that opened in December on the Five Mile River in Rowayton and has been having phenomenal business since then. The space was formerly occupied by the popular River Cat Grill and you will be greeted by some of the same smiling and friendly staff.

One of the reasons for the instant success of Sails is that it is owned by the Ceruzzi Group, which operates successful restaurants in New York City, including Botte del Vino at 7 East 50th Street Kenmare at 98 Kenmare Street and Sfoglia at 135 East 92nd Street and Lexington Avenue; there’s also a Sfoglia on Nantucket.

Also good news is that classically trained chef Nathan Kramer is in charge of the kitchen. A graduate of Johnson and Wales, Chef Kramer, who lives in Greenwich, said during an interview that his first mentor was Glenn Thomas of the Avon Old Farms Hotel in Connecticut. He has worked with many celebrated chefs, including Larry Forgione, David Burke, and Nancy Oakes, all experiences enabling him to understand how marrying wholesome foods with the most flavorful ingredients results in the perfect dish. He also worked at Centro in Greenwich before becoming River Cat Grill chef four years ago.

Chef Kramer uses grass fed beef and organic produce from regional purveyors, and looks forward to selecting produce from local farms during the summer.

Keeping with Rowayton’s rich history of sailing, the decor of Sails is inspired by the beauty and craft of sailing, with a gray, white and deep blue interior. The walls feature photography by artist Michael Kahn, demonstrating his fascination with the ocean and classic sailing yachts.

Popular signature items at Sails are braised short rib sliders; house-made gnocchi (it isn’t real gnocchi unless it’s house-made); truffle and mushroom pizza topped with pancetta and truffle oil; house-made lobster ravioli; and cedar-planked wild Atlantic salmon.

Two hearty meal-size salads are warm herb-crusted goat cheese and beets with baby arugula, mache, candied pecans, sliced pears, and a cracked pepper dressing and roasted Amish chicken breast with baby arugula, romaine, parsnips, butternut squash, haricots verts, pears, Stilton cheese with a cream sherry dressing. The menu also includes pizza and burgers. There is something for everyone’s taste at Sails American Grill.

The children’s menu offers an organic all-beef hot dog, pasta with butter and marinara sauce, and sides of french fries, grilled asparagus, sweet corn and noodles.

Who can resist finishing a meal with a choice of a brûlée banana split or a warm chocolate ooze cake, but if you must try something new in a dessert (all $8), there is the Salty Turtle, made with Longford’s vanilla ice cream with chocolate and caramel sauces and salt cashews, and the Sails root beer float served with house biscuits.

Sails American Grill

148 Rowayton Avenue

Rowayton, 203-853-SAIL (7245)

Serving lunch from 11:30 to 2:30; dinner from 5:30 to 10:30; Sunday brunch 11:30 to 3; closed Monday.

Reservations accepted; handicapped accessible; major credit cards; children’s menu; full bar, bottle and draft beers; wines $8 to $14 by the glass, starting at $28 by the bottle; modern American menu; take-out; upscale casual dress; private functions; music on weekends. seasonal outdoor patio; street parking.