Mar 21, 2008
Habana in South Norwalk
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70 North Main Street
South Norwalk, 203-852-9790
Serving dinner from 5 p.m. daily.
Reservations suggested handicapped accessible; major credit cards; full bar; Cuban/nuevo cuisine; vegetarian selections; dietary restrictions honored; take-out; casual dress; DJ music, private functions, street and area lot parking.
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Appetizers: $9 to $14
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Entrees: $24 to $30
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Wine by the glass: $8 to $12
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By the bottle: Starting at $30
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Specialty cocktails: $9 to $13
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Sipping “Rhums”: 8 to $10
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Desserts: $8 to $12
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Habana in South Norwalk
by FRAN SIKORSKI
No strangers to the restaurant business, Michael Roberge and Lushe Gjuraj are the new owners of the 10-year-old Cuban-influenced restaurant and gathering place, Habana in South Norwalk (SoNo). Their goal is to bring it back to the original incarnation while looking forward to a sense of newness with cuisine from Africa, Asia, Spain, and the Caribbean. They are also the owners of Ocean Drive in SoNo and Quatro Regali, Spazio, and Parkway Diner, all in Stamford. Habana is within easy walking distance to shops, theaters and the Maritime Aquarium/IMAX Theater in South Norwalk.
The long narrow space of the restaurant is divided down the middle to separate the bar and dining room, and exposed brick walls and earth tones, blended with color splashes and twinkling lights, set the mood. There are more “rhums” here than at any other restaurant around and it all ties in with the steady beats of the rhumba and mambo music. Beverage specialties are Mojito, Caipirinha, Copa, and Habana Volcano.
Various chefs have lent their talents to Habana, and the current executive chef is Cruz Abalar, assisted by sous chef Freddy Pena.
Frank D’Agostino, with 20 years’ experience in the food and beverage industry and as head of a Greenwich-based company D’Agostino Productions, is general manager, supervising the rejuvenation of Habana.
My companions and I enjoyed a wine dinner presentation starting with hor d’oeuvres of jumbo coconut-crusted shrimp with peach mango salsita, parrillade — table-top fire pots to grill skirt steak, shrimp, chicken and sausage, and empanadas, stuffed with meat, vegetables and mozzarella cheese, a very tasty start.
The first course was a shrimp and scallop ceviche. The three entrees, all menu favorites, were paella Habana with calasparra rice, saffron, chicken, spicy chorizo, shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, calamari, green peas, roasted piquillo peppers and a giant prawn; plantain-coated Chilean sea bass with black bean risotto, mango wine sauce and a fried banana; and steak chimichurri, grilled medium rare, served with garlic mashed potatoes and Argentinean chimichurri sauce.
Two “stars” from the dessert list were churros, homemade doughnuts served with chocolate sauce, whipped cream and ice cream, and key lime cheesecake — mascarpone, coconut-macadamia crunch, with rum-roasted pineapple. Other desserts are a huge Habana banana sundae that can be shared and a tres leches cake with caramelized banana.
Entrees also recommended are bouillabaisse Latino with shrimp, scallops, mussels and clams in a saffron-fennel broth; slowly roasted guava-glazed ribs served with spicy mashed potatoes; and herbed leg of lamb over roasted rosemary demiglace with corn pastel and mint fava beans; and salmon adobado potato pancake, grilled asparagus, and cucumber cream sauce.
It’s all very festive dining at Habana, but the loud beat of the rhumba and mambo music can be distracting at times and prevent normal conversation while dining.
Side dishes
A Lafite Rothschild Around the World wine-tasting dinner will take place March 28 from 7 to 10 p.m. at
Le Chateau in South Salem, N.Y. The cost is $115 person plus tax and gratuities. Andre Dore is the excecutive chef. Reservations, 914-533-6631... Recently returned from a trip to Napa Valley, Frank and Marsha Whitman, owners of
Silvermine Tavern are hosting a March 30 Napa Valley Wine Dinner starting at 6. The cost is $90 per person; 203-847-4558.
© Copyright 2008 by Hersam Acorn Newspapers
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