Apr 3, 2008
Marly's of Wilton
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205 Town Green
Wilton, 203-834-2000
Serving lunch 11:30 to 3 Monday to Friday; dinner 5 to 9 Sunday to
Wednesday; 5 to 9:45 Thursday to Saturday; Sunday brunch 11 to 3 soon.
Reservations accepted for parties of six or more; handicapped
accessible; major credit cards; children’s menu; full bar with global
wines; American bistro, vegetarian selections; dietary restrictions
honored; take-out, off-premises catering, private functions up to 30;
casual attire; seasonal outdoor dining; plenty of parking.
Soups: $7
Salads: $7 to $16
Appetizers: $7 to $14
Sandwiches: $10 to $14
Entrees: $16 to $29
Wine by the glass: $6 to $10
By the bottle: $25 to $140
Desserts: $7 to $9
After dinner drinks: $4.50 to $14
by FRAN SIKORSKI
Brian LaBlanc and Michael LeBeau, owners of Marly’s of Wilton, previously worked together in area restaurants, including The Black Goose in Darien and Gates in New Canaan. When they decided it was time to open their own restaurant, Brian found a location Mike had also been “looking at for 10 years and would buy it if it was up for sale.”
The “ideal location” was Eric and Michael’s Restaurant in the Wilton Town Green and this time, the space was available for sale.
It took six months to create Marly’s of Wilton, including engaging CIA graduate David Snyder as executive chef, Chris Colum, also trained at CIA, as sous chef, and Ana Wambach as pastry chef. James Lowes is general manager. Marly’s of Wilton opened in February and is named for Michael LeBeau’s wife, Marly.
I enjoyed a sautéed lump crab cake with sweet corn salsa and avocado cream and my companion praised the evening salad special, a composed salad of fresh hearts of palm with marinated mushrooms and heirloom Cherokee purple tomatoes.
Two soups, Newport traditional style clam chowder and six-onion soup finished with a touch of cream and cognac, were featured.
Other “starters” are slow-roasted herb-crusted rare tuna, haricots verts and olive salad with tomato oil; crispy duck leg confit and sliced garlic potatoes; and lightly fried calamari with marinara sauce and lemon aioli; pan-seared sea scallops with fresh autumn mushrooms; and orecchiette with sausage, pancetta, onions, wild mushrooms and truffle essence. Combine several “starters” and you have a tasty meal. Also recommended is the frisee salad with caramelized bosc pears, roasted fennel, oyster mushrooms, and gorgonzola apple balsamic vinaigrette.
Our entrees were sautéed king salmon, with French lentils and pancetta, English mustard cream and pinot noir glaze, and grilled Certified Angus New York strip steak served with crispy potatoes, creamed spinach and truffle butter.
We also enjoyed the configuration of the new restaurant, affording more privacy to tables, and less noise while dining. For first time out restaurateurs Brian LeBlanc and Michael LeBeau have done quite well for themselves, and their expertise with fine wines is also evident.
There’s more to look forward to if you are selecting a dessert made by pastry chef Ana Wambach. The list includes individual ricotta cheesecake accompanied by candied Meyer lemon and red wine caramel sauce; molten chocolate cake with caramelized banana ice cream, shaved white chocolate and espresso-infused vanilla sauce; warm vanilla- and chocolate-filled doughnut holes tossed with spiced sugar, and served with a milk ice cream shake and milk wafers; and hot chocolate served with whipped cream and a graham cracker-roasted marshmallow Napoleon.
We selected a trio of winter fruit sorbets, blood orange with candied zest, kiwi with macademia nut praline and cranberry with cranberry-orange marmalade, a lighter ending to Chef David Snyder’s very satisfying creative menu.
Side dishes
The Capital Grille, part of a group of 32 restaurants with a diverse menu ranging from dry-aged steak to large North Atlantic lobsters and fresh local seafood, opened Feb. 25 at 230 Tresser Boulevard in downtown Stamford. Reservations, 203-967-0000.
© Copyright 2008 by Hersam Acorn Newspapers
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